A slow train journey through Zambia with boundless views of the land outside has brought us to the Northern Province. But we still want to carry on to the great lake.
Around noon we arrive in Nakonde, at the border with Tanzania, some manageable 3 hours late. We don’t really feel quite awake, but are excited about our onward journey to Mpulungu at Lake Tanganyika. Edna Hara, a young entrepreneur whom I’ve only known from WhatsApp voice calls, is waiting for us at the train station. She will help us find a bus.
We don’t have much time to loose, as the bus ride will take another 4-5 hours. But first we need stocks, especially some bottles of water. Thanks to Edna, we find out which bus will arrive next – which is not so easy, when all the bus companies disguise their actual departure times by using “now” or “soon” phrases.
Finally, we are on our way, in a tourist-free and not particularly comfortable coach, surrounded by locals. Unlike me, they seem to be used to long bus journeys with hardly any breaks. The afternoon heat makes us doze most of the way, but we don’t sleep through the magnificent sunset at 6 pm.
The simple lodge near the bus station is fine for tonight. But for tomorrow we have booked ourselves into a very special place.
Karin